Balinese Cultural Experience: Where to Learn Traditional Dance
Growing up, I remember my mum would occasionally play balinese gamelan and dance in the living room, she would make me listen to the music, and teach me to understand the way it changes and flows. She told me that when she was in Primary School, it was compulsory for all students to learn a traditional Balinese art, so like many other young girls her age, she took up the art of traditional Balinese dance. Around the same time, my mum took me to a traditional Balinese dance class taught by Ibu Merthi Poedjono (my mums first friend when she arrived in Australia in the 80s), at The Indonesian Consulate in Melbourne. Ibu Merthi taught me the basics, like how to “Seledet”, a series of expressive eye movements characteristic to traditional Balinese dance. It’s memories like these that shaped me and are what drove me to become a dancer. Much later in my life, I also had the opportunity to learn the choreography to Tari Puspanjali, taught by Sanggar Lestari Melbourne, however they didn’t specialise in Balinese dance, so they could only teach me so much, in terms of the technical movements and postures. That was the extent of my Balinese dance knowledge, and I quickly realised I really needed to learn from the ground up to completely understand the art form, so I guess naturally at some point I felt like I had out grown Melbourne a bit.
So I packed up my life and moved to Bali, starting my new journey through the complicated yet beautiful world of Balinese dance. As you can tell since I was a kid I’ve always wanted to learn traditional Balinese dance, it kind of makes sense – since Balinese blood runs through my veins. So, when I moved to Bali, I was excited to start my search to find a dance school and finally learn traditional Balinese dance first hand. I thought this would be the easy part since there’s an abundance of traditional dance schools in Bali. It turns out I was wrong. Believe it or not, finding a traditional Balinese dance school in Bali is not that simple.
Looking for a dance school
To begin my search, I turned to Google Maps and looked up traditional dance schools in my area, and literally hundreds of schools popped up. So, I started clicking away, trying to dig up more details on prices and how to sign up. To my surprise, even though it seemed as though all of these schools had tons of students, none them provided information on their social media and almost all of them didn’t have websites. It felt as though it was general knowledge for the Balinese community, so providing the information online was irrelevant for them.
Luckily, my nieces were part of a traditional Balinese dance school, so I turned to them for some guidance. Both of my nieces are part of Sanggar Tari Warini in Denpasar. I heard this was a well known dance school so after talking with them and their dance school, I decided to give this place a shot.
My first dance class
One sunny Saturday afternoon, I arrived at Sanggar Warini. I had my cousin and niece help prepare me with what I needed for my first class – a Kamen, Strapless/Stagen, and Kipas. I headed to class early feeling energized and ready to go. As I waited for my class to start, I sat back and watched a class of 30 or so little girls, no more than 5 years old learning to dance. It was so adorable to watch. About half way through, the older girls started arriving for class – when I say older girls, I mean ages ranging from 10-15 years old, so imagine me as a 30+ year old, feeling out of place and nervous, especially since the dance mums who were around my age, seemed to be sitting at the back in what felt like gossip groups. I knew it was all in my head so I had to shake it off and remember what I came for. To add to my nerves, just as class was about to start, I realised I didn’t know how to wear a kamen properly, and the introvert and overly anxious person in me couldn’t find the courage to ask for help. So I frantically tried to figure out how to wrap it by watching the other girls wrapping theirs and attempt something similar – but my bad eyesight didn’t do me any favours! I literally broke a sweat before class, just trying to put it on.
Then it was time for class, the teacher called out for us to prepare to learn a dance that I had never heard of before and as a new student I was told to just find a spot amongst the sea of students and follow along. The music started and everyone else began to dance. I instantly found myself confused – I expected the dance teacher to stand at the front of the class and break down the dance moves step by step. Instead, she was calling out the names of very specific dance moves in the balinese language (which I don’t understand well enough), while she stood on the side lines watching. All the other girls just seemed to flow naturally and knew what to do. Meanwhile, I had never properly learnt the foundations of Balinese dance, so I didn’t know the names of the moves or how to execute them. I was lost, I felt like a headless chook, running and spinning, doing my best to keep up. After class, I found out to learn those foundation moves, I would need to take the class with the little 5 year old girls from earlier… to avoid the future embarrassment in front of the Bali dance mums, I asked the teacher if I could take private classes to learn the foundations of balinese dance, but unfortunately she told me they didn’t offer this service.
After that experience, I jumped onto Instagram and watched how other dance schools ran their classes to see if there was somewhere that suited my skill level, and it looked like all dance schools were structured the same way as Sanggar Tari Warini. So it was back to the drawing board for me. I couldn’t possibly continue to take these classes without understanding the foundations, so at least now I knew, that I had to either join 5 year olds classes, or find somewhere that could provide private lessons to bring me up to speed. Obviously I chose the latter, as I could never imagine my anxious self feeling like a clumsy giant, confused and freaking out, in a sea of cute and composed 5 year old girls. So off I went again, on a hunt for a private dance teacher.
Private dance lessons
Back on Instagram, I contacted a crazy amount of Sanggar’s to ask if they did private lessons. It must have been a busy time of year, or maybe I was just contacting the wrong places – because the dance schools I got in touch with either didn’t respond, didn’t have time, or just didn’t provide this service. During this time I felt as though I hadn’t danced in forever, so thankfully a couple of months into my search I was lucky enough to be accepted into the Indonesian Arts & Culture Scholarship (IACS) program, where I had the chance to stay in East Java for a few months and learn traditional East Javanese dance from a small town in Banyuwangi which was an incredible experience where I met lots of amazing people, including the team representing Bali in the IACS program, Sanggar Seni Semarandana, who introduced me to Gek Indah who was willing to teach me privately once we had arrived back in Bali. Finally I was moving forward again!
Fast forward to Bali – as soon as I had a moment to catch up with Gek Indah, I made sure I did just that. With renewed hope, I took the 1 hour trek from South Denpasar to Sanggar Semarandana in Munggu, to take my very first private lesson, where Gek Indah carefully went through the foundations of Balinese dance. She covered all of the basic movements and what they were called, and then began to teach me Tari Pendet, which is considered a beginners dance. By the end of the 2 hour session, she had taken me through the entire short version of Tari Pendet, so I truly felt accomplished, and excited that I had finally found somewhere that would provide the lessons I needed to reach my goal of mastering Balinese dance.
I only managed to get 2 lessons in with Sanggar Semarandana before they got super busy with Balinese ceremonial events, which are a major part of day to day life here in Bali. Considering the arts play such a huge role during ceremonies and at temples, Semarandana were unable to conduct classes during these times. Couple that with trying to find a work/life balance and that I had to travel 2 hours there and back each time, it was all getting a little difficult to juggle, and I couldn’t help but feel a little disheartened thinking that I may not be able to find a dance school to continue with on a regular basis.
Balinese dance as a foreigner
Determined not to give up, I jumped back on the gram to try and find dance schools with private lessons. I still didn’t really feel confident enough to take on general everyday classes, and I kept imagining myself as Godzilla, stomping awkwardly around those poor 5 year old girls as they screamed and ran to their dance mums. During my rabbit hole search I came across a few foreigners on instagram who had been learning traditional balinese dance for some time. They seemed well trained, and were performing intricate and difficult dances around Bali. I wasn’t too sure where they had learned to dance, but it sparked an idea in my mind – for me to give up searching traditional dance schools and try alternative dance schools instead, schools that provided balinese dance classes to foreigners. I stumbled across Canggu Studio, that provided Hip Hop, Afro, Locking, Heels Dancing and so much more, but what got my attention was their traditional Balinese dance classes. At this point, I had nothing to lose, so off I went to Canggu to learn traditional Balinese dance. There’s a sentence I never thought I’d say, but here we are. I walked into class a little late as the traffic was chaos (as usual), so when I walked in, they had already begun class. There were 4 foreign students guided by an Indonesian dance teacher who was teaching Tari Pendet. Perfect, I thought to myself – I could brush up on what I had learnt with Sanggar Semarandana. During the class I realised the students were being taught the choreography of the dance, without the technique. The teacher didn’t seem bothered if the technique of the students were wrong, as long as they were following along with the choreography. I figured that people who come to these classes, are just looking for an introduction or for a little cultural experience and not for a deep dive. I gave the teacher the benefit of the doubt and asked if she provided private lessons, in which she responded with a hard ‘No’…. sigh. I felt so defeated. I was ready to just suck it up and not learn the foundations and become Sanggar Warini’s new Godzilla mascot, but then asked myself why I moved to Bali if I’m not going to learn properly? I may as well go on YouTube and learn off whatever video I come across. One day, as I was scrolling through Instagram (as usual), I decided to search “Balinese Dancers” to find some Instagram Reels to entertain me, and I came across an Instagram account with that exact handle ‘@BalineseDancers’ with the description Learn Balinese Dance. So of course, I clicked on it. I instantly got excited as I saw that they provided in-home private dances lessons, so they could come to me rather than me having to brave the traffic jams. Pure joy turned to instant disappointment when it looked like they didn’t service my area. What the heck, I thought, I can’t give up now, it wouldn’t hurt to ask, so I sent them a message and after a bit of back and forth they eventually told me that they represent a Sanggar in my area, which actually provides private lessons. Turns out the Sanggar was very close, like only 5 mins from my home close, and it was EXACTLY what I was looking for all this time. Finally, the stars were aligning! I agreed to pay for 1 month (4 classes) up front so I could really commit, and finally the day came to take my first lesson with Sanggar Tari Nadewa.
Sanggar Tari Nadewa
In my first dance class with Sanggar Nadewa, I arrived early and walked in on their general classes with young students, just like Sanggar Warini, only a much smaller class. The owner and dance teacher, Bli Gunadi, mistakenly thought I had come to pick up my child from his class, and was surprised when I told him I was there for my private lesson. Already off to a rocky start, awkward! Once he finished the children’s class, he called me up to begin the private lesson. He asked if I was preparing for a dance competition and if there was a specific dance I wanted to freshen up on – I guess it’s not normal for someone my age to be learning Balinese dance from scratch. So I told him I wanted to start from the very beginning and learn everything from the ground up, and that’s exactly what we did. We went over all of the foundation moves and their names as I was still not confident with remembering them yet, and then, once again began learning Tari Pendet, this time with a teaching style I had only heard of and had occasionally seen on historical videos on youtube, where the teacher physically pushes their students into each position as they dance, forcing and contorting your limbs into the correct places. He tilted my head into place, spun me, pulled and dragged my body around, he literally moved me like a puppet. Although it wasn’t what I was used to, this teaching style is exactly what I needed, not only was he teaching me the moves, but also perfecting it and making me understand the feeling of being in the correct position and never giving me a chance to get lazy or used to moving incorrectly. After one class, I could not only see the difference in my dance style, but could also feel it. From the beginning of my search in March 2023, it wasn’t until October 2023 that I managed to find a dance school that was perfect for me. I have now been learning traditional Balinese dance with Bli Gun for a couple of months and have so far learned the full version of Tari Pendet, he also fixed and improved my moves for Tari Puspanjali, and we have now started to learn Tari Tenun, Tari Condong and have even gone one step further to learn a masculine balinese dance starting with Tari Baris. It’s been non stop and I have been having an absolute blast. It took a while, but I got there in the end. Now I can’t wait to see where I end up over the next year. Here’s to finally being able to begin to properly learn traditional Balinese Dance!
Here is a list of dance schools in Bali I have checked out so far
WEEKLY CLASS
Sanggar Tari Warini
Location: Denpasar
When: Every Saturday, 2-4pm (kids) or 4-6pm (teens) + Sunday 8-10am
Cost: 100K Registration Fee + 75K per month
Instagram: instagram.com/sanggar_tari_warini
Sanggar Tari Bali Nadewa
Location: South Denpasar
When: –
Cost: 135K Registration Fee includes Kamen + 1 Lesson
Instagram: instagram.com/sanggarnadewa_
Dharma Nusantara Adhiluhung Foundation
Location: The Key Creative Space, West Denpasar
When: Every Sunday 10am-1pm
Cost: 250k per month
Instagram: instagram.com/traditionalcourse
(Balinese & Javanese dance classes)
Sanggar Tari Rajapala
Location: Seminyak
When: –
Cost: 50K Registration Fee + 10K per lesson + 150K Baju Kamen
Instagram: instagram.com/sanggar_rajapala
Canggu Studio
Location: Canggu
When: Every Saturday, 11am
Cost: Foreigner 140k | Kitas 110k | Indonesian 100k
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/thecanggustudio/
Sanggar Tari Bali Ubud – Kerta Art
Location: Ubud
When: Every Friday & Saturday 4-5.30pm (Beginner) 5.30-7pm (Teens)
Cost: –
Instagram: instagram.com/kerta_art
PRIVATE CLASS
Sanggar Seni Semarandana
Location: Munggu
When: By appointment
Cost: 200K per session
Instagram: instagram.com/sanggarsenisemarandana
Balinese Dance Class
Location: Uluwatu, Ubud and Canggu (Home visit also available)
When: By appointment
Cost: 120K per session or 450k per month
Instagram: instagram.com/balinesedancers
Sanggar Tari Rajapala
Location: Seminyak
When: By appointment
Cost: 50K per hour
Instagram: instagram.com/sanggar_rajapala
Sanggar Tari Bali Nadewa
Location: South Denpasar
When: By appointment
Cost: 100K per session
Instagram: instagram.com/sanggarnadewa_